Kabocha Squash and Tomatillo Soup
By Joe Bender
Originally from The New Vegetarian Epicure by Anna Thomas, this is one of my favorite recipes. I’ve made it for years for all kinds of occasions, special and everyday. It’s pretty straightforward but the flavors really sing. The tang of the tomatillos balances the earthy richness of the kabocha squash, punched up by a bit of chile heat and the sweetness of the caramelized onion garnish. All the ingredients are usually available at the Co-op, and none are expensive, making it an economical and festive meal. If the Co-op doesn’t have tomatillos on the day you want to make it, they are usually in stock at many neighborhood groceries.
This recipe makes six servings. It calls for kabocha squash, but also works great with red kuri squash, pumpkin, or any smooth-fleshed squash.
Ingredients:
1½ pounds tomatillos (about 12 medium-sized)
3-4 medium, ripe tomatoes
10-12 cloves garlic (leave the skin on)
¼ teaspoon salt, to taste
4 cups kabocha squash, peeled and diced (about one medium squash or one that weighs about two pounds).
4 cups vegetable broth
2 cups water, more if needed
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 large yellow onions, sliced
2 tablespoons white wine or vermouth (optional)
2 dried arbol, serrano or other hot red chiles
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Wash and remove the husks from the tomatillos — they can be sticky, so this is easiest in a bowl of water — and cut them in half. Trim and quarter the tomatoes, and separate the garlic cloves, leaving the skin on. Arrange the tomatillos, tomatoes and garlic cloves in a baking dish, sprinkle them with one tablespoon of the olive oil, sprinkle them with salt and toss to coat. Roast them in the oven for 35–45 minutes, turning once, until the tomatoes and tomatillos are beginning to char in spots. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly.
Place the diced squash in a pot and add just enough stock and water to cover the squash. Simmer, covered, 30–35 minutes, until tender.
While the vegetables are roasting and the squash is simmering, heat the other tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet. Add the onions and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, until the onions are caramelized and golden brown. Optional: when the onions are nearly done, add the wine or vermouth and stir until the liquid is evaporated, then remove from the heat.
When the roasted vegetables are cool enough to handle, transfer the tomatillos and tomatoes to a blender, along with any juices that have accumulated in the pan. Remove (or squeeze) the roasted garlic cloves from their skins and add to the blender. Ladle about half of the cooked squash into the blender along with a bit of the cooking liquid. Blend until smooth. Add the puree to the pot with the remaining broth and squash. If it’s too thick for your taste, add a bit more water. Taste and adjust salt.
Remove the stems and seeds from the chiles, toast them in a dry pan over medium heat for a couple of minutes until fragrant, then coarsely crush or chop them and stir into the soup. Depending on the heat of your chiles, you may want to start with half the chiles and see how hot it gets.
Ladle into bowls, top with caramelized onions and serve!